To Flute or Not to Flute? That Is the Question for a Glass of Champagne

 

Navigating the world of glassware can be a daunting task. With so many options to choose from, you may have found yourself wondering whether you really need a specific glass for a particular varietal. This thought might then be followed by another: ‘Do I even have enough storage space for so many glassware sets?’.

At Sally Hillman, we believe selecting glassware for your favourite drink should be fun and simple. That’s why we’ve launched our three-part series, The Glassware Archives, with the aim to demystify wine glasses and equip you with the knowledge and confidence you need to build your very own collection.

In Part 1, we wrote in depth about the science behind the shape of a wine glass and the multifactorial and multisensory influences that affect our perception of flavour. In Part 2, we implemented this knowledge to provide detailed glassware recommendations for both still wines and bar and lounge beverages. Designed to guide and enrich all tasting experiences, Part 2 also introduced the world of Lehmann Glass, France’s much-loved artisanal glassware brand. Rather than assigning specific glasses to particular varietals, Lehmann Glass offers a navigable and versatile glassware range to suit a variety of wine styles.

In Part 3, we’ve saved the best for last. Here, we’ll explore a topic that is very close to our hearts: the magical—and often mythical—universe of champagne glasses!

What was the first champagne glass?

Long before Emily and co were sipping champagne from flutes and coupes, popping corks and spraying Champére in ‘Emily in Paris’, there was another tableaux de modes (‘paintings of fashions’) that depicted a champagne action scene with far greater decorum—and far less collective facepalm! (Don’t get us wrong, we love ‘Emily in Paris’, but there are only so many crimes committed against champagne and champagne glassware that we can take!)

In 1735, sparkling champagne made its first appearance in painting, in a busy luncheon scene titled Le Déjeuner d’huîtres (‘The Oyster Lunch’) by Jean-François de Troy. Commissioned by King Louis XV for the dining room in his petits appartements at the Palace of Versailles, the painting depicted a group of noblemen indulging in an extravagant feast at a round table laid with oysters, champagne and bread in a lavishly decorated room. The vibrant scene is as much a buffet for viewers as it is for the gentlemen depicted; you can almost hear the lively chatter, the satisfied sounds of feasting and the clatter of fresh oysters against silver platters as servants diligently shuck, the marbled floor littered with empty shells. Following the guests’ line of sight, a champagne cork flies midair as dignitaries pour champagne from a theatrical height. Short-stemmed glasses with round, funnel-shaped bowls are filled and drunk in a single gulp, then overturned into painted porcelain bowls for the sediment to drain. Offering a voyeuristic glimpse into the lives of the baroque upper class, Le Déjeuner d’huîtres also provides an accurate portrayal of champagne in one of its earliest sparkling forms, as well as insight into champagne glassware, bottle shape and etiquette in the 18th century, long before Madame Clicquot pioneered the art of table-riddling (a revolutionary technique to clarify wine and rid it of sediment).

If only they knew what we now know about champagne glassware, perhaps their joie de vivre would have increased tenfold!

Effervescence is the hallmark of champagne. Refreshing and mesmerising, the bright pinprick bubbles tingle across the palate to bring a touch of celestial magic like so many stars in space—and that’s not an exaggeration! There are approximately 100 million bubbles in a 750 mL bottle of champagne—about the same number of stars as in the average galaxy. Bubbles are also known to ring like bells, making the festive pouring of champagne both a literal and figurative symbol of celebration!

Trivia aside, bubbles are fundamental to the taste of champagne because they carry the wine’s flavour molecules into the air above the glass, where they evaporate. As bubbles percolate from the bottom of a glass, they create currents in the sparkling wine and fire tiny droplets into the air when they burst at the wine’s surface. This aerosol of aromas is lifted towards our nose when we sniff from the glass and take a sip, ultimately enhancing our flavour perception and sensory experience.

The size of the bubbles also plays a major role in aroma release. Though bubble size can vary from 0.4 mm to 4 mm in diameter, larger bubbles with a radius of approximately 1.7 mm (about 3.4 mm in diameter) have been found to eject the greatest number of droplets into the air, significantly increasing aroma diffusion and potentially improving the taste of the champagne. This finding means that, contrary to popular belief, the presence of smaller bubbles in the wine glass, which is common to aged or vintage champagnes, is not necessarily an indicator of superior quality and flavour on its own, as smaller bubbles are less effective in releasing aromas. It is therefore essential to select a champagne glass of very specific shape and size to best support and enhance the bubbles—especially in the case of aged champagnes.

It is for this reason that the shallow, saucer-shaped coupe is an ineffective champagne glass.

Fashionable from the 18th century until the 1970s in France, the coupe was popularised all over Europe and ‘new world’ countries, in particular during the Roaring 20s and the Hollywood era.

The coupe is variously cited as being modelled on the perfect breast shape of Madame du Pompadour or Madame du Barry, both mistresses of Louis XV; Marie Antoinette, teen queen of France and wife of Louis XVI; Empress Josephine, the wife of Napoleon Bonaparte; and even Helen of Troy! Since the glass coupe was first created in the 1660s in England—a considerably long time after the Trojan War and predating the French ladies by at least half a century—we’ll have to relegate these stories, as entertaining as they are, to the myth category.

Apart from providing salacious lore and nostalgia for the bygone, the coupe is not the glass of choice for champagne connoisseurs. Its shallow, broad bowl allows the bubbles (and therefore aromas) to dissipate too quickly (as the surface area is very large for its volume), resulting in flat champagne with little aromatic potential. Thus, the coupe is now mostly only seen in novelty displays like champagne towers, rather than at serious tasting events, and it has gained a second life as a cocktail glass.

The next question is whether the tall and tapered flute is recommended for tasting champagne.

In a word: non.

The slender flute first made its appearance in the mid 20th century, coinciding with a surge in the popularity and sale of champagne and eventually toppling the coupe to become à la mode. To this day, some manufacturers and wine educators still tout the flute as the ideal champagne glass. While it is true that the flute’s elongated shape maximises the effect of the bubbles and aromas because they funnel through a larger volume of wine before bursting at the surface, the cylindrical shape and narrow opening of the glass do not provide adequate development of, or access to, the wine’s aroma.

Further constraining the aromas, the narrower aperture of the flute causes gaseous carbon dioxide to collect and concentrate above the champagne’s surface, resulting in an unpleasant ‘carbonic bite’ in the nose when smelling or sipping.

To diminish carbon dioxide’s acidic bite and to preserve the effervescence and aroma of champagne, the tulip-shaped glass is the quintessential champagne glass of our times.

Many champagne Houses had struggled to find the perfect champagne glass to showcase their cuvées, favouring white wine glasses over the outdated coupe and flute, until an innovative sommelier found a way to bring the now-preferred tulip-shaped glass into the hands of consumers. His name is Philippe Jamesse.

For almost two decades, Philippe was the Head Sommelier at the Michelin-starred Domaine Les Crayères in Reims. Frustrated by the lack of champagne-appropriate glassware on the market, Philippe consulted local glass manufacturer Lehmann Glass  in the early 2000s, and, together, they collaborated to create an elongated glass—rounded in the middle and narrow towards the top—that was introduced to diners in 2008. With the help of Gérard Liger-Belair, a renowned physicist at the University of Reims who works extensively in the science of champagne, they later discovered that the spherical shape of the Lehmann Jamesse glasses ‘encourages vertical movement (and) respects the role of the mousse’ as the bubbles carry aromas to the surface. The glasses also allow each bubble to burst at the widest point of the ‘tulip’ to free its aromas, providing enough space for aeration, which coaxes out the more nuanced notes, deftly captured by the tapered lip.

The elegant and sophisticated tulip glass has also given rise to the growing appreciation that universal glassware, and especially those shaped anywhere between a tulip and a white wine glass, are ideal for champagne tasting. Such glasses all feature a tall, elegant stem to prevent heat transfer; precise curvature to allow bubbles to burst in a pleasing plume of aromatic mist; a tapered mouth to both collect the aromas and give room for our nose; and an ethereal thinness and transparency of glass that allows for a seamless transition onto the palate and for light to refract to enhance champagne’s signature sparkle. The shape of these glasses not only improves champagne tasting with the optimal release of its aromas but also improves the sight and sound of the bubbles, which are all integral to the magical champagne experience.

Emily and co: we hope you’re listening.

Now that we know that preserving effervescence is vital to our enjoyment of a glass of champagne, how do we preserve it?

Gérard Liger-Belair discovered that microscopic fibres deposited from the air or left after wiping with a kitchen towel are the cause of bubble formation in the glass. These random, natural impurities provide a nucleation site for dissolved carbon dioxide molecules to then gather and generate a chain of bubbles. This is why machine-washed glasses that have been vigorously cleaned and blown dry are not recommended for use as they could be so spotless that very few bubbles form, drastically diminishing our sensory experience.

Instead, the best way to maintain efferevescence is to gently wash glasses by hand—without detergent and under warm water—so that they are residue- and stain-free. Once air-dried, they should be polished gently with a polishing cloth, being careful not to twist the glass against the stem as this can cause breakages.

To control effervescence, some glassmakers use lasers to engrave the bottom of the glass, creating an artificial site to manipulate bubble formation. Fortunately, there are more natural ways to promote that desirable string of bubbles in your wine glass.

With the expertise of master glassmakers, effervescence can be promoted and bubbles can be coaxed through the precise shaping of the base of the glass. One of the defining features of the Jamesse Lehmann tulip glass is its pointed base, perfectly pronounced to encourage a clear-cut and long-lasting effervescence while allowing the champagne freedom to produce a natural bead.

So, now that you’ve travelled through the universe of champagne glasses, which glassware will you choose?

Effervescence is everything when it comes to champagne and its glassware, so why not choose a glass from the heart of Champagne? Lehmann Glass is an artisanal glassware brand designed, made and tested by passionate professionals who live and breathe all things champagne. They offer a demystified range of glassware, and each piece is painstakingly crafted to maximise tasting potential while respecting aesthetic and usage preferences.

Below are our Lehmann glassware recommendations for different types of champagnes and occasions. Featuring champagne-specific glassware from the Signature Collections of Lehmann P. Jamesse, Lehmann A. Lallement and Lehmann G. Basset, we guarantee there’s a glass or two to satisfy every palate, pleasure and preference.

Vintage, aged and complex champagnes, including gastronomic champagne rosés

Vintage and aged champagnes contain less carbon dioxide than younger champagnes, which means they have finer, slower and smaller bubbles and must be poured gently into an appropriately sized glass to preserve their effervescence and aroma. As studies have shown that smaller champagne bubbles perform worse in terms of aroma release, it is important to serve aged champagnes in a wider and larger tulip-shaped glass. This allows the glass to be filled halfway to the hip so that aromas can gradually release at the widest part of the ‘tulip’ while the large bowl enhances aeration to develop the lighter aromas, collecting them at the tapered rim for our tasting pleasure. For intense and complex champagnes, such as Blanc de Noirs champagnes or gastronomic champagne rosés, the following glasses will ensure complete aromatic expression and appreciation.

Lehmann P. Jamesse glassware: Synergie 60cl and Synergie 75cl, both Ultralight handmade

Lehmann A. Lallement glassware: N^o3 50cl, Ultralight handmade [coming soon to Le Shop]

Non-vintage and younger champagnes, including fresh and elegant champagne rosés

Compared to vintage, aged and complex champagnes, non-vintage and younger champagnes will favour a tulip-shaped glass with a narrower body, similar in size to those used for light- to medium-bodied white wines. The relatively larger bubbles of these wines release more aromas, which means the mousse must always be maintained in these champagne styles. Smaller glasses with precise depth and curvature ensure that the effervescence is not lost rapidly and that bubbles rise steadily to the surface for aromas to concentrate optimally.

Lehmann P. Jamesse glassware: Grand Champagne 45cl, Ultralight handmade; Grand Champagne 41 or Synergie 52cl, both machine-made

Lehmann G. Basset glassware: Hommage 45cl, Ultralight machine-made

Both the machine-made Lehmann P. Jamesse Premium 28.5cl and the Ultralight handmade Lehmann A. Lallement N^o4 43cl glasses are excellent all-rounders for all champagne styles and celebrations. Thoughtfully proportioned and elegantly crafted, these glasses will keep the champagne effervescent and at the ideal temperature through to the very last sip, allowing guests to marvel at the fine, everlasting bead with each festive refill.

We are hard-pressed to find another wine glass that has gone through as many contrasting and evolving designs as the champagne glass. It is similarly baffling that each of the glasses—the coupe, the flute and the tulip—remain in the market concurrently and are all widely used in today’s hospitality industry, so it isn’t surprising that the question ‘to flute or not to flute’ is still a topic of interest.

Perhaps, to make sense of it all, we can look to champagne’s history and understand its ‘rags to riches’ tale—from a pale, pink-hued still wine to a fizzy wine with sediment, and finally to a sophisticated and contemporary sparkling wine that expresses joie de vivre like no other. Regaled as ‘the wine of kings, (and) the king of wines’, champagne has long been associated with luxury, wealth and celebration, so perhaps it stands to reason that its glassware has also been heavily influenced by the trends and myths of the day. Perhaps the coupe and the flute represent a nostalgic nod to a fascinating champagne story, and there remains a place for them still.

In the final cliffhanger episode of ‘Emily in Paris’ Season 2, Sylvie and the Savoir marketing team sit in a busy café sharing exciting, life-changing news with Emily. The camera pauses momentarily as Luc pours Emily a glass of champagne, giving us a moment to gasp. Apart from Sylvie’s ice-cool demeanour, there’s just one other detail that’s captivated our attention: tulip glasses! Elegant, statuesque and arresting, the tulip glasses frame each scene, and, just as we begin to ponder exactly which of the Lehmann P. Jamesse Grand Champagne glasses they are, it suddenly dawns on us that the diverse array of champagne glasses promenaded in this show might have been a clever allegory for character development all along. While there may be vintage appeal or sentimental value in the familiar—the coupe and the flute—the tulip glass will always represent the future.

And so, dear Emily, we hope you’ll choose wisely in Season 3.

At Sally Hillman, we are proud to offer Australia’s most comprehensive online range of Lehmann Glass, including the revolutionary Ultralight range and Signature Collections, elegant champagne and Bar & Lounge pieces, as well as everyday and universal glassware for home entertaining and hospitality.

Complimentary with every Lehmann Glass set of 6 is Sally Hillman’s signature microfibre polishing cloth, designed to boost brilliance for that final touch of stemware perfection and to elevate each and every tasting experience.

We are always delighted to ship Lehmann glassware to anywhere in Australia.

Discover the art of the table with Lehmann Glass today.

This is the final article in our three-part series on the art and science of glassware and wine tasting. To read the previous articles in Sally Hillman’s Glassware Archives, please visit Part 1 and Part 2—hopefully with a glass of champagne, still wine or perfectly chilled cocktail in hand!

Santé!