The Glassware Archives Part 1: The Universe in a Glass

A poet once said, ‘The whole universe is in a glass of wine.’ We will probably never know in what sense he meant that, for poets do not write to be understood. But it is true that if we look at a glass of wine closely enough we see the entire universe.

—Richard Feynman

Richard Feynman was a Nobel laureate, author and poet, whose iconic books and lectures on physics and the laws of the universe inspired a generation of thinkers in the 1960s and 1970s. While he was not a viticulturalist or glassmaker in no uncertain terms, Richard certainly understood the subliminal connection between a simple glass of wine and its worldly, even cosmic, origin. Without the creation of the universe to shape the winemaking world’s tapestried terroir, a simple glass of wine created from ripe berries would simply not exist. Everything is connected—if you look hard enough.

This is a powerful sentiment that lovers of the vinous table will understand completely.

Lehmann Glassware – P.Jamesse Synergie 60cl handmade ultralight glass

As perpetual wine learners ourselves, we enjoy nothing more than delving into the specific soils, climate, geology and topography of a region. The study of terroir is like tumbling down a rabbit hole from which we emerge in wonder and awe as we come to understand and appreciate the distinctions between unique regions, vineyards and even single parcels of vines. Through the lifelong practice of wine tasting, we are able to tangibly experience terroir’s influence on a wine’s profile. The intricacies and mysteries held in a glass of wine can be explained if you ask the right questions—and, ultimately, use the right glassware!

Master glassmakers, sommeliers, wine professionals, students, enthusiasts and scientists alike have long supported the notion that glassware really does matter in unlocking the full potential of fine wine.

The wider population is coming to this realisation too, as novel research has recently shown that our perception of flavour has less to do with our taste buds and more to do with our ability to smell.

IMAGE CREDIT: Lehmann Glassware

For almost a century, it was widely misunderstood that the tongue was sensitive to four basic tastes (sweet, sour, salty and bitter) limited to four sensitivity zones (sweetness was believed to be detected at the tip of the tongue; saltiness and sour, along the sides; bitterness, at the back). This theory was debunked in 1974, when taste receptors with similar sensitivities to all tastes were found on all parts of the tongue. In recent times, umami has been accepted as a fifth basic taste that our tongues can detect, and research remains ongoing to discover more. Though some manufacturers still advertise that glassware is particularly shaped to direct the flow of wine to specific zones of the tongue for greater flavour expression of certain varietals, these breakthrough discoveries of the late 20th century strongly disprove such claims.

So how exactly does glassware optimise our wine tasting experience then?

As our taste buds are only capable of differentiating between five, possibly more, basic tastes, our experience of flavour largely comes from our sense of smell. It is estimated that 80% of the flavours we perceive are through olfaction, both externally (directly through the nostrils) and internally (indirectly via retronasal olfaction, when the food or liquid is in the mouth and aromas travel up to the nasal cavity). This process, combined with our ability to distinguish at least a trillion scents, guides our palate in identifying specific flavours from a general sweet or sour taste, for example. In this way, being able to pinpoint aromas is very important in wine tasting, and, therefore, choosing the right glassware to facilitate the full release of a wine’s aromas—from floral, fruit and spice, to notes of lees, oak and more—is absolutely vital to the multisensory tasting experience.

Philippe Jamesse IMAGE CREDIT: Lehmann Glassware

We also need to be able to detect aromas distinctly and precisely.

Along with using clean and polished glassware, an ideal environment for wine tasting is quiet (to allow for greater concentration) and without strong odours. Perfume, cooking smells and even dust and residue on glassware, or the use of dirty polishing cloths, can completely destroy aromatics and taint flavours.

In terms of glassware architecture, studies at the turn of the 21st century have shown that several glasses of different shapes are equally effective in unmasking the aromas of wine. But, the intensity of perceived aromas strongly correlates with the ratio of the glass’s maximum diameter to its opening diameter (i.e., perceived aromatic intensity increases in glasses that have wider bowls and relatively narrower rims). This structure also allows wine to be swirled easily without spilling, enhancing aeration for the release of aromas that can then be concentrated and retained in the glass due to the narrow rim.

In 2015, Japanese scientists successfully imaged the distribution of alcohol vapours leaving a wine glass. It was found that the highest concentration of gaseous ethanol lies in a ring around the rim when wine is served at 13 °C. At higher temperatures, or when served in a martini glass (a glass with a wide opening) or straight glass (a glass with vertical sides), wine does not exhibit the same pattern. This means that the unique curvature of a wine glass is functionally important, helping us to discern aromas without the interference of harsh alcohol vapours when we put our nose in the centre of the glass.

Lehmann F. Sommier Signature Collection IMAGE CREDIT: Lehmann Glassware

There are also other senses that can affect flavour perception, such as the tactility, texture, speed and temperature of the wine striking the palate, as well as external factors, such as the environment and temperature, the weight of the glassware and even psychological influences. While this complex area of study is constantly evolving, it is universally understood that wine tasting and flavour perception is a highly subjective and idiosyncratic activity that is inextricably tied to personal experience, culture and emotion.

Armed with this knowledge, we encourage all fellow lovers of the vinous table to venture forth and experiment with glassware to find what best suits your palate and preference.

Perhaps, along the journey, we’ll see the whole universe in a glass, in our own way.

Lehmann Glassware

Are you wondering how to implement this newfound knowledge and learning to your own vinous table? Stay tuned for Part 2 and Part 3 of Sally Hillman’s Glassware Archives, where we’ll dive further into the art and science of glassware and wine tasting!