Australia’s Most Comprehensive Range of Lehmann Glassware 🥂🍷🍸 Shop Today
Australia’s Most Comprehensive Range of Lehmann Glassware 🥂🍷🍸 Shop Today
While Britain has its institution of afternoon tea, France has le goûter, the afternoon tradition that falls somewhere between a snack and a small meal. The word does not translate neatly into English. “Afternoon snack” is perhaps the closest description, although it misses something of the ritual. For French children and adults alike, le goûter is a moment to stop, eat something delicious and carry on until dinner.
Traditionally, le goûter is taken at around 4.30pm, between lunch and dinner, when the long stretch towards the evening meal can begin to make itself felt. It is a simple way of breaking up the day, particularly for children returning from school, but it need not be elaborate.
Perhaps that is the charm of le goûter. It is not about an abundance of food. It is about having something worth sitting down for.
There is no single French goûter. Depending on the household, the season and what has been baked recently, it might be as simple as fresh bread with butter and homemade jam, a piece of cake, a few madeleines or something made with the fruit of the season.
For the home cook, this is where the spirit of le goûter becomes particularly interesting. It lends itself particularly well to baking ahead, using good ingredients and making something that can be brought to the table without fuss when the afternoon hunger begins to set in.
That approach is very much in keeping with the philosophy behind my book. Good home cooking is not necessarily complicated cooking. It is about choosing ingredients well, paying attention to the details and understanding when a little preparation beforehand makes all the difference.
A cake made with seasonal apples, for example, needs very little embellishment. Fresh fruit, good butter and a carefully made batter are enough. Madeleines are another perfect example. Their ingredients are simple, but resting the batter and baking it in a properly heated oven gives them the characteristic hump and delicate texture that make them so irresistible.
Le goûter also makes a lovely excuse for an afternoon gathering. Rather than waiting for a formal occasion, invite friends over in the afternoon and put the kettle on, open a bottle of champagne, or both.
A plate of freshly baked madeleines or a French apple cake is enough to make an afternoon feel special. If you are entertaining, choose recipes that can be prepared ahead. Madeleines, for instance, benefit from resting their batter before baking, while a simple apple cake can be made earlier in the day and served at room temperature. That leaves you free to enjoy your guests rather than spending the afternoon in the kitchen.
If you love the idea of baking madeleines for an afternoon gathering, my Madeleine Gift Set brings together my book, a madeleine baking tray and a French linen tea towel, making it a thoughtful gift for a keen baker or anyone who enjoys entertaining at home.
The Madeleine Gift Set
One of the pleasures of le goûter is how easily it adapts to the seasons. What is served in the afternoon can change throughout the year: apples and pears in the cooler months, stone fruit in summer, citrus when the weather turns cold, or simply good bread with butter and homemade jam. Dark chocolate and salted butter are another simple pleasure at any time of year.
For the home cook, this is part of the pleasure of le goûter. A simple cake made with ripe fruit or a batch of lemon-scented madeleines all reflect the same approach: cook with good ingredients, pay attention to the details and let the season do some of the work.
The madeleines and gâteau aux pommes featured in this article can both be found in my book, alongside a collection of French-inspired recipes that celebrate seasonal ingredients, thoughtful preparation and the pleasure of cooking for family and friends.
If the afternoon has turned into an occasion for entertaining, champagne has a natural place alongside delicate French baking. The freshness and acidity of a Chardonnay-led champagne work particularly well with buttery cakes and the citrus notes of madeleines.
A non-vintage Blanc de Blancs is a particularly elegant choice with madeleines, while a delicate Chardonnay-dominant champagne rosé can work beautifully alongside them too. With the apple cake, look for a champagne with enough freshness to complement the sweetness of the fruit without overwhelming it.
Two champagnes I particularly enjoy with this style of afternoon baking are Champagne Pierre Péters Cuvée de Réserve NV and Champagne A. Bergère Rosé Brut NV.
These are the kinds of simple pairings that can turn an afternoon snack into something worth lingering over.
My book is an invitation to cook with the seasons, choose good ingredients and pay attention to the small details that turn simple food into something memorable.
From everyday cooking to dishes made for sharing, the recipes bring a little of the French approach to food, hospitality and the pleasure of gathering around the table in your own kitchen. It is a book for cooks who enjoy having people around the table, bakers who like to make something from scratch, and anyone who believes that good food, champagne and generous hospitality can make an ordinary occasion feel special.
Discover Celebrating Champagne: A Wine For All Seasons and explore the recipes, stories and philosophy behind my approach to French cooking and entertaining.
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